The 2006 Il Pino di Biserno opens with warm, expansive aromas of mocha, minerals and toasted oak that meld seamlessly into a core of ripe, dark fruit. This is a restrained style for Maremma, yet here, too, the wine’s balance is superb. With time in the glass, the wine comes together even more, hinting at its ultimate potential. Il Pino di Biserno is 35% Cabernet Franc, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 8% Petit Verdot that spent 12 months in French oak. In just its third vintage, Il Pino di Biserno already shows much promise. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024. Tenuta del Biserno is a relatively new project headed by brothers Lodovico and Piero Antinori. This will be a fascinating winery to follow as the wines continue to improve. The estate consists of two properties; the first in Bibbona and the second in Bolgheri. Readers who want to get a taste of Maremma without breaking the bank should check out Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

A ''classic'' Tuscan Bordeaux blend, perfumed with spiced blueberries, violets, lavender and cloves. The palate is juicy but structured, showing plenty of cherry and leather-tinged blackberries. Very robust, but complex and highly polished. £34.99-38.99