From a tiny parcel in the Ormeau, most of whose vines were planted immediately after phylloxera, Ente’s 2006 Meursault Le Seve du Clos is as exciting as that description would lead one to hope. Meaty, saline, savory, nobly fungal, and chalky characteristics dominate even in the aroma, and if I had tasted this truly blind, only the refreshing citricity and notes of milled grain, I suspect, would have kept me from imaging Pinot Noir. This Meursault displays the mineral depth of the ocean and the grip of the proverbial iron fist in the velvet glove. Dense, firm, yet both glycerin-rich and refreshing clear, it finish that rings out while leaving your palate wrung out! If this does not make old bones, few if any other Meursault are likely to do so. Incidentally, one of the three barrels here was new, making for the highest percentage of any wine at the domaine. Ente began picking September 13, finishing in six days. The result is wines of consistent clarity and refreshment, as well as full of nuances that call forth a mineral vocabulary. Use of demi-muids rather than barriques to raise many of the wines here helps ward off any overt woodiness. Eighty percent of Ente’s wine is exported, most of that to the U.S. and U.K. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524

From a tiny parcel in the Ormeau, most of whose vines were planted immediately after phylloxera, Ente’s 2006 Meursault Le Seve du Clos is as exciting as that description would lead one to hope. Meaty, saline, savory, nobly fungal, and chalky characteristics dominate even in the aroma, and if I had tasted this truly blind, only the refreshing citricity and notes of milled grain, I suspect, would have kept me from imaging Pinot Noir. This Meursault displays the mineral depth of the ocean and the grip of the proverbial iron fist in the velvet glove. Dense, firm, yet both glycerin-rich and refreshing clear, it finish that rings out while leaving your palate wrung out! If this does not make old bones, few if any other Meursault are likely to do so. Incidentally, one of the three barrels here was new, making for the highest percentage of any wine at the domaine.Ente began picking September 13, finishing in six days. The result is wines of consistent clarity and refreshment, as well as full of nuances that call forth a mineral vocabulary. Use of demi-muids rather than barriques to raise many of the wines here helps ward off any overt woodiness. Eighty percent of Ente’s wine is exported, most of that to the U.S. and U.K.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524