The Alliet 2004 Chinon Vieilles Vignes displays outstanding purity of blackberry fruit for its vintage, with aromatic overtones of resin and toasted praline; a fine-grained, soft mouth-feel; juicy, invigorating freshness; and a straightforward yet lip-smacking finish. It has been just over twenty years since Philippe Alliet consolidated his family’s properties, and he has built one of the region’s finest reputations while personally remaining remarkably reclusive. (I tasted with Alliet’s wife, who took pains to explain that no offense was intended by her husband’s absence in his vineyards.)A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300. Also imported by Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA 94708; tel. (510) 559-1040