The 2006 Charmes-Chambertin - which is half from Mazoyeres - required especially stringent selection in consequence of its hail damage, reports Charlopin. Mocha, vanilla, almond extract, and lightly-cooked cherry set the confectionary tone throughout. Pungent suggestions of wood smoke and hints of chalk help alleviate the dominance of sweetness that persists into the finish (and which, naturally, will appeal more to some tasters than to others). These tannins are remarkably refined given what the vines went through, and the impression is linen-like if not downright silken. This should satisfy for at least the better part of a decade, and hopefully gain further complexity. Philippe Charlopin is known for his outgoing personality, which applies also to the wines of his domaine spread over more than two dozen appellations, an astonishing nine of which are grand crus. Elevage is long here, and when I last tasted his 2006s with Charlopin in Spring 2008, none had yet been bottled.Various importers, including The Country Vintner, Ashland, VA 23005; tel. (804) 752-3670 and Elite Wines, Lorton VA; tel. (703) 339-8150 and Wine Imports, Ltd., San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 451-2520
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