This fruit-forward wine based on grapes mostly from the Toro region represents a relatively new project from a venerable Rioja producer. With a few years behind the wines, the ’04 is highly expressive and packed with bold character. The palate is lush, saturated and meaty, while the finish is smoky and big. This is a lot of wine for the money. ——M.S.(11/15/2006)—— 88