The Dauvissat 2006 Chablis Vaillons leads with citrus and spice, gooseberry and peach kernel, backed by chalky and iodine-like expressions of minerality. Less polished and without the transparency of the Sechet, it nevertheless exhibits formidable density and finishes with a positively gripping sense of tactile minerality, citrus zest, and peach kernel. This should loosen up and become more expressive with time, and be worth following for 6-8 years. The high-toned, palate-staining, tea-like, mineral-infused 2005 represents the sole instance where I marginally preferred Dauvissat’s wine of that vintage to his 2006.
Vincent Dauvissat’s 2006s were finished with both alcoholic fermentation and malolactic transformation by January. Overall – and particularly in the Grand Cru range – Dauvissat’s 2005s are marginally less exciting than his 2006s, and in certain instances, surprisingly, more opulent and exotically ripe. In both recent vintages, Dauvissat’s wines (even the generics) are pushing 14% alcohol, although in tasting the 2006s in particular, you’d never guess this.
Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802. (Under the “Dauvissat-Camus” label, certain of these wines are also imported by Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (781) 352-1100.)
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