Often my favorite of the whole portfolio, the 2017 Graciano Grano A Grano seems to keep the poise, and the late-ripening variety even seems to like the warmer year. The aromas are an intoxicating blend of cracked black pepper and violets, beautifully layered and nuanced. It has a fine thread, lively acidity and refined tannins, and even if the oak is still there, it should get absorbed in a short time. I find this to be as good as ever and a real triumph over the adverse conditions of the year. Bravo!