A smoked meat note on the nose of Ambroise’s 2008 Beaune Tuvilains morphs into a beef jerky-like impression on a palate firmly underlain with fine tannins and delivering the sort of concentrated black fruits I associate with this grower year after year. Exuberant finishing juiciness and pleasantly tart berry skin impingement reminiscent of the 2006 rendition offer nice counterpoint to toasted praline and resin, leaving me reasonably refreshed and with lips tingling. This needs a few years to open-up, I suspect, and ought to be worth following for the better part of a decade. Bertrand Ambroise picked late and captured impressively ripe material in 2008, though the strident side of the vintage is sometimes still in evidence in the resultant wines, and not always comfortably married with the ambitious extraction and high quotient of new wood that characterize his regimen. (For further details concerning Ambroise’s methods, consult my report in issue 171.) I did not, regrettably, have chance to taste any of Ambroise’s 2007s, which he characterizes, predictably, as having been much more open early-on than his 2008s and as for the most part being ideal to drink young.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083