After the less than inspirational efforts Diamond Creek has produced since 1985, the three cuvees of 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon exhibit better richness, excellent purity, and deep ruby/purple colors. Nevertheless, for longtime fans of Diamond Creek Cabernet, weaned on the blockbuster, rich, occasionally rustic, but always individualistic and distinctive as well as super-complex and concentrated wines of the seventies and early eighties, there has clearly been a radical change in style. Although the wines may be more elegant and consistent, they are also less interesting. That is not to say they are not good, but anyone who has tasted Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon from 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, or 1978, as well as vintages through the early eighties, knows that when mature these wines are riveting examples of California Cabernet Sauvignon. There now appears to be an emphasis on a more sculptured, elegant style.The most flattering of the three cuvees at present is the 1992 Gravelly Meadow Cabernet Sauvignon. It offers attractive, juicy fruit, an austere structure reminiscent of a barrel sample of young Bordeaux, and a medium-bodied, moderately tannic finish. It is a well-made, polite style of Cabernet that proponents would say is filled with finesse and style. I like it, but I would have enjoyed seeing a bit more forceful richness and concentration, a la the old Diamond Creeks.All of Diamond Creek's offerings should turn out to be very fine Cabernet Sauvignons with at least two decades of aging potential. However, the move toward a more stylish, elegant, and refined Cabernet Sauvignon appears to have condemned Diamond Creek to following the pack. While they are very good, well-made wines, I lament the fact that they have so little in common with the Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignons made between 1974-1984.
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