The 2005 Gran Reserva is a blend of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo and 5% Graciano: a selection of the best grapes from 20- to 25-year-old vines that is then aged in American and French oak for 24 months. It has an intense minty nose of blackberry, smoke and grilled meats that is well-defined, but surprisingly taut considering the vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with a tarry, leathery entry. The tannins are fine and linear, the finish classic in style with a dash of white pepper and tar. This is a very well-made Gran Reserva drinking beautifully now, but certainly it has the substance to keep. Drink now-2022. Bodegas Lan was established in 1972 and after a number of itinerant owners, they settled with an investment group, Mercapital, in 2002. Their winery is based in the town of Fuenmayor in Rioja Alta. They own 70 hectares of vineyard, the remainder out-sourced and the wine is raised in a combination of different oak regimes in their barrel cellar that can accommodate some 25,000 barrels. I was impressed by the consistency of these wines that are well-crafted and with a propensity to age. Importer: Well Oiled Wine Company, Leesburg, VA; tel. (703) 771-1477

Earth and dark chocolate notes frame plum pudding and licorice flavors in this plump red. Features light, firm tannins and balsamic acidity. A bit clumsy, but lively. Drink now through 2014. 7,000 cases made, 600 cases imported.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add