The 2006 Pietradonice (Cabernet Sauvignon) explodes from the glass with the essence of blackberry jam, French oak, grilled herbs and cassis. This super-ripe, opulent wine offers tons of elegance and finesse in a full-bodied style. The tannins are firm but ripe, and beautifully balanced by the wine’s radiant, warm fruit. This is a gem from proprietor Giacomo Neri. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2026. Giacomo Neri is one of Montalcino’s more gregarious producers. His passion clearly comes through in these wines, which are characterized by an emphasis on fruit and opulence. Neri’s Brunellos also make a great case study in the different microclimates of Montalcino. His straight Brunello di Montalcino is made from vineyards ranging from 350-480 meters in altitude located in the northeastern quadrant of the region. The Tenuta Nuova is made from a densely-planted vineyard located roughly in between Sant’Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell’Abate, in the southern part of the zone. The vines in the north typically flower three weeks later than those in the south, and naturally ripen later as well, which serves to highlight some of the differences between Montalcino’s various microclimates. Neri’s 2004 Brunellos are immensely successful. I look forward with great anticipation to the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto, which should be released some time next year. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

This full, plump and generous Cabernet Sauvignon offers loads of ripe fruit, smoothness and intensity. If you love rich, sun-filled red wines from Tuscany, this is a perfect choice. In the mouth, you get firm tannins and bright cherry flavors on the close. Excellent. ——M.L.(10/1/2010)—— 93