Weingut Weingart Schloss Furstenberg Riesling Spatlese, Mittelrhein, Germany

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The 2004 Schloss Furstenberg Riesling Spatlese smells extravagantly of peach, cherry, pink grapefruit and vanilla. A suggestion of milkiness on the nose suggests to Weingart that perhaps this started into malo-lactic conversion. But, no matter, the wine is compelling. Sweet, honeyed and creamy in the mouth, it preserves enough citricity to stay lively and project its effusively ripe, subtly botrytized fruit personality into a gushing finish. This suggests the flavors of a young 1975, and its ample stuffing and residual sugar may well help to render it a good 20-year keeper. Florian Weingart brought no Riesling in from the Bopparder Hamm under 90 degrees oechsle – a record at this estate – but the range of phenolic ripeness was much more variable than that statistic would suggest. In years gone by, Adolf Weingart would have attempted to gently de-acidify a vintage with acids like this, but his son sticks by principle and with a single exception did not touch the 2004 acids. Instead, he tried to counter any tendency toward green, aggressive acidity with time on the lees and judicious application of residual sugar. But as he points out, it didn’t help that the 2004s as a rule stubbornly held on to their CO2 after a cold winter, a condition normally viewed as favorable. Introducing some wood into the cellar is an idea for the future.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300