Made in a completely different style, the 2005 Gaba do Xil (a tank-fermented and aged 100% Godello) reveals a green hue to its light straw color, aromas and flavors of honeyed citrus, and an underlying minty component. This tasty, medium-bodied, fresh white should be consumed over the next year.

This wine is at its peak and you may wish to wait for the 2006, but if you encounter this toasty, mineral-influenced Godello, go for it. The palate is loaded with peach, papaya and green melon, while the finish is creamy and smooth. With Gaba do Xil, the stateliness and simple pleasures of Valdeorras on are on full display. From Vinos de Telmo Rodriguez.——M.S.(11/1/2007)—— 90