Wafting from the glass with complex aromas of orange rind, sweet spices and plums mingled with hints of raspberries, loamy soil, woodsmoke and cedar, the 1980 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes is medium to full-bodied, ample and sensual, with melting tannins, bright acids and an enveloping core of fruit. It concludes with a long, gently chalky finish. This is drinking beautifully today.