Displaying more density and depth than its predecessors in Salomon’s line-up, his 2010 Gruner Veltliner Wachtberg combines sugar snap pea, fresh French green bean, and blond tobacco on a lush yet buoyant and juicy palate suffused with mouthwatering salinity and crushed stone. Hints of pepper add invigoration to an exuberantly prolonged finish. This ought to serve well for at least 6-8 years. Berthold Salomon suffered dramatic 2010 crop-losses with Riesling, but only a small diminution of Gruner Veltliner, “and for me,” he adds, “this is definitely a Gruner Veltliner year.” Between selective de-acidification of musts and allowing some lots to undergo malo-lactic transformation, the high acids of the vintage managed to be quite well-tamed at this address. (Details on some of this estate’s large acreage can be found scattered throughout my previous reports.)Various importers, including Fruit of the Vines Inc, Long Island City, NY; tel. (718) 392 5640, Artisan Growers & Producers, San Francisco CA; tel. (415) 264 4866, and Bommarito Wines, Saint Louis, MI; tel. (314) 961 8996