The 2005 Gruner Veltliner Wachtberg – of which only a small amount was bottled and, alas, none is presently earmarked for the States – leads with cress and lettuce aromas and follows up on the palate with the anticipated crunch and juiciness. Juicy and delicate in finish, it’s not suffering from having just been bottled. Where the Wieden stayed in tank, this sojourned briefly in cask to give it air. The finish is ravishingly long and bracing, the wine packed with mineral mass but wearing it much more lightly than the Wieden. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($15.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinterassen ($17.00; 84 ), 2005 Riesling Kogel Reserve ($39.00; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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