The 2009 Malvasia is at first quite ripe and exotic, but then turns quite a bit more minerally on the mid-palate and finish. It is a marvelous, fascinating wine loaded with character and personality. Ash, smoke and crushed rocks add complexity to the intensely varietal fruit. Sweet floral notes add lift on the close. Zidarich’s Malvasia is often one of the top wines in Friuli, as it is again in 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. GPS isn’t much use in the Carso, one of the most remote corners of Friuli. This rugged stretch of mountains lies above Trieste, with views of the ocean and a microclimate that is very much its own. Beniamino Zidarich somehow managed to paintakingly carve a multi-level cellar out of the rock. But it is really the wines that are most notable. Over the years, Zidarich has fine-tuned his approach and it shows. Zidarich ferments his whites with some skin contact, but prefers to keep that time shorter than many of his colleagues who have adopted a similar approach. Zidarich is one of the most exciting growers in Italy. His wines merit serious attention. A visit to Zidarich is essential for anyone who has a serious interest in the wines, people and culture of the Carso. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243