The 2005 Malvasia is focused on entry, then expands onto the palate with a compelling array of earthiness, minerals, pears and spices, with superb persistence and a lingering note of sweetness on the long finish. It comes across as more expressive in both its aromatics and flavors than the Vitovska. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2010.
There is an expressive purity to Beniamino Zidarich’s wines that I adore. Zidarich works out of a small cellar carved out of the dramatic rock formations that are the dominant terrain in the Carso mountain range. The vineyards were planted beginning in 1988 with densities ranging from 8,000-10,000 plants per hectare. The wines are fermented with natural yeasts in open-top wood vats where they see contact with the skins for eight to ten days. Aging takes place in mid-size Slavonian oak casks and the wines are bottled without fining or filtration. Zidarich’s wines are cloudy in color, but that is simply the result of wines that have been made with a bare minimum of intervention. Like all whites macerated on the skins, these wines should be served at cellar temperature in large glasses. Even in the weaker 2005 vintage Zidarich has crafted wines that are well worth seeking out.
Importer: J.K. Imports, Pasadena, CA; tel. (626) 824-2411
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