The 2004 Chaleur Estate is a blend from three vineyards, predominantly in the Red Mountain AVA, and is composed of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot,7% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. Purple-colored, it presents a Bordeaux-like perfume of cedar, vanilla, spice box, cranberry, cassis, clove, and black currants. This is followed by a full-bodied wine with gobs of ripe fruit, serious depth and concentration, soft tannins, and complex flavors. Drink this hedonistic effort over the next 10-12 years. www.delillecellars.com

This is a similar blend to DeLille’s Harrison Hill bottling, but these grapes are largely from Red Mountain. Chaleur Estate is a very site-specific wine, and it has a strong component of mineral, granite or pencil lead. Dense, well-articulated flavors of very tart, precise red fruits, blue fruits, black fruits almost overwhelms; this is a wine to savor and one that requires a lot of airtime. The only cautionary note is the high alcohol (15.2%), which may shorten its lifespan. ——P.G.(3/1/2007)—— 93