Amazing aromas of blueberries, black cherries, spices, sage, thyme, and violets emanate from the glass of the 2003 Chaleur Estate (red). Though this wine is densely packed with candied blackberries as well as cassis, it loses none of its elegance and charm. Extremely well-focused and detailed, it also reveals great length in its seamless finish. Drink it over the next 15 years. Tel. (425) 489-0544; www.delillecellars.com

Powerful, youthful and still a bit raw, the newest release of DeLille’s signature red blend shows a range of fruit from cherry and blackberry to dark notes of raisin and balsamic. It’s still melding together its aggressive barrel toast, showing good structure and balance for long-term aging. Despite its almost 15% alcohol, it is balanced and even. ——P.G.(8/1/2006)—— 92