The 2009 Touriga Nacional has a lot of “wow” factor at the moment – it seems lavishly oaked on opening and in its youth, a blueberry/vanilla concoction that was sweet, sexy and flamboyant. It has reasonably well integrated tannins, but they are there and they do assert themselves. In a fairly disjointed state on opening, this gradually changed, integrating a lot of its oak (but nowhere near all and not enough), showing more backbone and a little astringency and becoming wine, not just a sweet concoction. That said, it shows considerable potential, but it needs to absorb that oak and show more of its grape, character and terroir, too. I had some evidence it would, but let’s be a little conservative here. Stick this in the cellar for a couple of years, even if it is approachable earlier. I think it will eventually show far better. Drink 2013-2022. Crasto is one of the Douro’s most prominent estates, typically one of its leaders. With a beautiful Quinta and view – easier to get to by boat, more interesting to get to by car – it justly attracts a lot of attention. The releases this year, 2009s, have plenty to offer, but I was not entirely convinced by all of the upper level wines. Perhaps time will tell another story as they calm down and settle down. Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, Ca.; (415) 931-1725.

An intensely herbal expression of Touriga Nacional, very spicy, dominated by new wood flavors. Under the wood and chocolate, the perfumed sweet black currant fruit is ready to show its richness. With its elegant texture, this will be a very fine in 4-5 years. ——R.V.(2/1/2012)—— 92