There are 400 cases of the large-scaled 2000 Pinot Noir West Block Vineyard (from a vineyard planted in 1970). Its dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by a sweet nose of toasty French oak intermixed with raspberries and cherries, a ripe attack, and full body. This stunningly good wine is more showy and open-knit than its siblings. Tel. (707) 433-2305; Fax (707) 433-2358

Smells big and meaty, suggesting earth, mutton, tobacco and anise, but there’s also a burst of dark stone fruits, berries and dark chocolate. In the mouth, it’s gigantic yet balanced and harmonious. Massive flavors of perfectly ripened berries are offset by gorgeous acids and luscious tannins. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. ——S.H.(2/1/2003)—— 94