Classic black cherry aromatics intermixed with smoky new oak jump from a glass of the 1997 Pinot Noir West Block. This dark ruby/purple-colored wine, aged in 100% new Francois Freres oak, is full-bodied, tighter than its predecessors, but nicely layered, with sweet kirsch and black cherry-like flavors, good glycerin, and fine purity. The slightly angular and tannic finish in this compressed example kept my score conservative.Tom Rochioli's Pinot Noir are among the most thrilling being produced in northern California. They represent the amazing progress the state has made with this fickle, easily bruised varietal.Tel. (707) 433-2305; (707) 433-2358

Fairly tannic, herbal, pale. Very thin, transparent in flavor. Used to be “delicious” (Tom Rochioli) but past its prime.——S.H.(6/1/2005)—— 84