Weingut Willi Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese, Mosel, Germany

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Markus Haag’s 2009 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese – from the Laychen, an especially stony site he says is favored in really ripe vintages – smells of white peach and nut oils, which migrate to a delicate, satiny, judiciously sweet palate threaded with salt and crushed stone. While less exuberant than most of the wines in the present collection, this is more nuanced and offers haunting, both soothing and subtly refreshing length. Look for at least 15 years of satisfaction from this and quite possibly longer. According to Inge Haag, the impact of sporadic October rain was greater in Brauneberg than in most other Mosel villages, and losses to perosopera and negative botrytis led to an unusually small crop (reflected inter alia in the relative absence of wines that require reference to their A.P.#s to disambiguate!) and a relatively early conclusion to the harvest in the final days of October. Must weights, notes Markus Haag, were in an unusually narrow band this year, the choice of which lots to declare as being of which Pradikat falling almost entirely on the basis of style. Fruit from the Burgerslay vineyard so often responsible for the most distinctively delicious wines at this address was in 2009 spread around rather than being dedicated to a single bottling.Numerous importers, including Atlanta Improvement Co.; tel. (404) 876 4500, Imperial Beverage, Kalamazoo, MI; tel. (269) 382 4200, Import A-N-T Wines, Venice, FL; tel. (941) 493 3000, Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620