The Moreau 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Vergers offers the most brightness and sheer intensity of any of the estate's admirable 2007s, with a mingling of fresh lemon, lime, and crushed stone that, admittedly, will strike some tasters as austere. This trades the refinement of the Grandes Rouchottes for kilowatts that power a vibratory finishing exchange of citrus and mineral, together with a bite of white pepper. There is a sense of meat stock richness underlying this bottling as there was the Grandes Rouchottes, and on account of its very straight, rather severely citric and mineral personality, too, it is a wine likely to especially please lovers of Chablis or even of dry German Riesling.
With the ascendance of a new generation – Alexandre (largely in the cellar) and Benoit Moreau largely in the vineyards – the vines of the Bernard Moreau estate are getting more meticulous care and their wines gentler, longer elevage notably 6 months in tank after the wines' stay in barrel. I did not have an opportunity to visit them but was thrilled with the samples I tasted (save for a Chassagne Morgeot that was inexplicably too reduced to adequately assess, much less savor).
Imported by The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460, also Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; tel: (516) 327-0808
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