Colin's 1997 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Champs-Gains (one-half of the parcel is 40 years old, the other 15) was harvested at 13% natural potential alcohol. An expressive nose of stones, earth, flint, and clay, is followed by a thick, dense, and medium-to-full-bodied personality. This expansive, tangy white fruit and mineral-flavored wine may be too heavy for those searching for finesse and elegance, yet consumers who crave flavor and power will adore it. Projected maturity: now-2004. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel (212) 775-8185.
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