The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino offers up dark fruit, grilled herbs, tobacco, leather, licorice and sweet herbs in a mid-weight style. The tannins are elegant and refined throughout, only slight elements of greenness keep the score from going higher. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. This a beautiful set of wines from Altesino, a historic producer that in recent years has made noticeable strides to improve quality. Altesino ages its Brunellos in cask, while the wines in the Altesi range are aged in smaller French oak barrels. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Shows bright berry, earth, mushroom and leather on the nose. Full-bodied, with very ripe, almost raisiny fruit. Tight and lean now, but the rich fruit comes through on the finish. Give this time. Best after 2011. 10,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add