Biondi-Santi’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is an intriguing wine. Silky, refined tannins frame a core of perfumed dark red fruits as this compact, linear Brunello opens up in the glass. This medium-bodied Brunello is in need of serious bottle age, but the potential seems for the wine to develop nicely over the coming years. The estate’s 2004 is not a blockbuster, but rather a delicate, ethereal style of Brunello. It is also one of the finer wines made from this part of Montalcino in 2004. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Biondi-Santi represents one of the most staunchly traditional approaches in Montalcino, and with good reason, as it is here that the original Brunello clone of Sangiovese was discovered. The estate favors long maceration times and extended aging in large, neutral casks. Importer: Shaw-Ross, Miramar, FL; tel. (954) 430-5020

Shows a little earth and bret, with meat and ripe cherry on the nose. Full-bodied. Tart and a bit funky. Maybe it will be better with a little age. Disappointing. Best after 2011. 5,250 cases made. -JS

Orange peel, acidity and sour cherries. Very tannic, aIthough fresh and juicy; simple Brunello. Drink from 2009. (15.33 points)

Earthy tones of moist clay, tobacco, leather and light shadings of spice open the nose of this delicate and elegant wine. In the mouth, the wine’s natural acidity kicks in and washes clean over the palate with fresh flavors of wild berry and red currants. The finish is long and persuasive and shows the best of Sangiovese Grosso.——M.L.(11/1/2009)—— 93

Light ruby in appearance and elegant in form. Aromas are imparted in measured doses to offer playful hints of bright red fruit, forest floor, sour cherry and delicate floral tones. It’s lean in the mouth with clean acidity and an easy finish.——M.L.(3/1/2008)—— 88