The medium-red 2001 Brunello di Montalcino is an austere wine that seems to be built for tertiary development rather than for an expression of fruit. It is a medium-bodied yet structured Brunello with a modest, compressed core of red fruit, licorice and menthol flavors, displaying good overall length. Although several hours of air helped, this wine never became particularly expressive over the week I followed it. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. Importer: Remy Cointreau USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 424-2204

Stewed fruit, tobacco and cedar character. Medium- to full-bodied, with a subdued palate and a medium finish. Dry. A disappointment. Drink now. 5,580 cases made. -JS