I tasted this wine as soon as I opened it, as well as one hour later, eight hours later, and eighteen hours later. The neck brochure suggests eight hours of breathing is necessary to give the wine every opportunity to impress. The light ruby color is among the least saturated of all the 1990 Brunellos. As the neck label suggests, the wine opens with airing, offering up a subtle aromatic profile of dried roses, saddle leather, and earthy notes. With a transparent, watery color, this austere, medium-bodied, tart, high-acid wine lacks fruit, extract and concentration. This is the most famous estate in Tuscany (perhaps Italy), and while this wine's high acidity and tannin will ensure 20 to 40 years of longevity, the wine will never provide much pleasure. Importer: Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Stiff and tannic, with its tough texture and modest fruit flavors a bit out of balance. -

A very good Brunello, in the old style, with slightly mature brick-red color and cedary, smoky, spicy character. There's a pretty richness to it, too, and a round, velvety texture. Drink now. -