Domaine Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine Sur Lie Le L d'Or, Loire, France

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The 2006 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie L d’Or smells almost sharply of lemon pip, tangerine zest, and sea spray. Zesty, tart citrus; salt; green tea; and rather adamant chalk and oyster shell notes inform the palate, leading to a finish whose mineral “stuff” it seems one couldn’t scrape off. Beside the more extroverted, juicily ripe – though in its way equally mineral – 2007, this comes off as rather austere. But there is much to recommend it in and of itself over the next 2-3 years, and if you play around with these exceedingly versatile wines at table, you will find each of the two vintages has its own fortes. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191