Smelling of lime, artichoke, oyster shells and salt spray, the Luneau-Papin 2005 Muscadet de Sevre et Main Sur Lie L d’Or (reviewed among on-line addenda to issue 172, the text reprinted here) offers a wonderfully palate saturating range of saline and chalky mineral impressions and a broth-like richness (if slightly less vivacity than their 2004 L d’Or at a similar stage) and finishes with a combination of infectious juiciness and salty tang that reel one back for the next sip.Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191