The 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva straddles a fine line between modernity and traditionalism. Aromas are chiseled and defined with bold cherry, Spanish cedar, moist tobacco and pressed red flower. The fruit layering is rich, but never over-the-top. In fact, the wine feels downright elegant, tight and pristine overall. It’s a pure expression of Sangiovese. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Castello di Volpaia is one of the banner estates of the Radda in Chianti subzone of Chianti Classico in Siena province. It is managed by the Mascheroni Stianti family: Giovannella, Carlo, Nicolo and Federica. Thanks to high-elevation vineyards, Volpaia’s wines are celebrated for their freshness and finesse. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd.; www.wilsondaniels.com