The 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva (Sangiovese) is a beautiful, precise wine laced with sweet dark cherries, menthol, tobacco, minerals and spices. It shows gorgeous clarity and precision in a highly appealing, mid-weight style. The Riserva spent 24 months in oak, 80% cask and 20% new barriques, a much better balance for the fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2023.
Volpaia is one of those estates that can only exist in Tuscany. This medieval hamlet is worth a visit from a cultural and historical perspective alone. The wines can be excellent but are also inconsistent. In recent years, the Stianti family has expanded their production with holdings in Maremma. Those wines are still clearly works in progress. Call me a purist, but I would rather see them focus on making the wines from Volpaia great first. The potential is clearly there, it just needs to be realized.
Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661
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