Weingut Toni Jost Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Mittelrhein, Germany

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At around 8.5%, the Jost 2010 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese - picked out from this year’s B.A. - unexpectedly harbors at least 20% more alcohol than the corresponding Spat- or Auslese, but the must (which , as Peter Jost admits, rather incredibly , got de-acidified) was from totally-shriveled berries and simply that stratospherically high in sugar, conditions that super-sticky, dried apricot, and sultana-like palate impressions rather obviously tend to confirm. Prickly pungency and aggressive smokiness put one in mind of a mega-botrytis-Eiswein hybrid, and the overall effect here, as in the corresponding B.A., is raw edged and almost raucous, albeit sweeter and viscous. Cecilia Jost remarks that she searched the family’s cellars in vain for a wine from the VDP’s centennial year, but thinks that perhaps this T.B.A. will give her grandchildren something to open for the bicentennial. There are only 50 liters total, so I don’t know, in view of that remark, how many she intends to actually sell, but while I am sure they will not fatigue for at least a couple of decades, I would not place bets on what they’ll become. One can only hope they will to some greater degree knit and harmonize.Jost’s musts - largely from late October picking - were all double-salt de-acidified, and certain lots, including the Grosse Gewachse from both Mittelrhein and Rheingau, also underwent malo-lactic transformation in the course of unusually long fermentations. “We should culture and sell whatever powerful bacteria managed this,” notes Cecilia Jost jocularly, considering the low-pH medium in which they worked even after double-salt treatment. High acids also prompted some experiments in extended lees exposure and skin contact, though I fancy the latter might in some instances have accentuated a tendency toward bitterness. (Cecelia Jost had acquired some experience with all of these approaches from her time in New Zealand.) Residual sugar was left higher, and alcohol lower than usual in the majority of these 2010s.Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463