Weingut Toni Jost Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Mittelrhein, Germany

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Down to just 7.5% alcohol and concomitantly high in residual sugar, the Hahn 2007 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese perpetuates the themes of caramelized and distilled fruit with oceanic minerality established by its B.A. counterpart. Lemon oil, white raisin, hoisin sauce, and quince and apricot preserves are wreathed in smoke and musk and lapped by salt water. This captures the magic whereby wine of enormous viscosity and palpable density of extract can still seem to levitate on the palate. The persistence of citrus and salt keeps the jam-like, honeyed flavors from becoming even the least bit cloying in a finish of prodigious length, in which the array of mineral nuances that is detectable testifies to a sense of utmost clarity. The perfection of dessication and must weight here approach that of the corresponding 2003, yet the wine’s personality is utterly different, and the Josts hasten to note that not only do they believe 2007 inherently superior for its retention of freshness of primary juiciness, but that their 2003 would have benefitted from their current strict policy of eliminating any prematurely raisined or botrytized grapes no matter how few. Figure this good ... make that great for fifty or more years. The 2007 vintage was immensely satisfying for the Josts, combining as it did high must weights (but less so than in most recent vintages); ripe acid-retention; ample precipitation (for a flagship site so notoriously dry that it is among the very few in Germany to have been approved decades ago for drip lines); perfect botrytis; and a bumper crop (after several straight years of penury). All of that noted, I was still marginally disappointed by this year’s dry wines. I cannot help but wonder whether the Hahn simply promotes too much sugar in its Riesling grapes for ideal balance at legal Trockenheit. Peter Jost continues to follow a distinctive approach to nobly sweet success – honed only over the past several years – of rigorously removing and discarding in September any botrytis that might not later at harvest be distinguishable from fresh botrytis, and of favoring lower residual sugar and correspondingly higher alcohol in the finished wines than is nowadays fashionable.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300