The 2005 Barbaresco Vigneto Valeirano opens with a huge, brooding nose of smoke, tar, and scorched earth. This massive, building wine changes constantly in the glass, as black cherries, wild herbs, menthol and licorice gradually take center stage. Despite its large-scaled personality, the wine possesses tons of harmony. Sweet notes of menthol and tar linger on the long finish. This explosive Barbaresco is impressive for the way it marries power to elegance in 2005. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Giorgio Rivetti has another set of very solid wines on his hands with his 2005 Barbarescos. The wines have always shown terrific balance and are just a notch or two below his 2004s. Importer: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale FL; tel. (954) 530-4021

This vineyard designate Barbaresco delivers elegant mineral tones and pretty accents of chopped herbs, black fruit, forest floor, bramble and licorice. “Elegance” is the key word here and the wine finishes with soft tannins and impressive staying power.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 91