Tremblay’s 2005 Morey-St.-Denis Tres Girard – named for the vineyard between Sorbe and the rue nationale – is assembled from several parcels, mostly of young vines, and was bottled in December. Smelling of cherry and anise, it comes to the palate silky and polished, with subtle smoked meat and soy-like savor accompanying its fresh, ripe fruit, then reaches for a finish of improbable length, soothing richness, and refinement considering the age and location of these vines. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.