A big wine, the dense opaque ruby/purple-colored, tannic 1997 Barolo Brunate, exhibits copious aromas of cassis, black cherry, kirsch liqueur, licorice, smoke, truffles, and new oak. Notes of coffee and chocolate emerge as the wine sits in the glass. It possesses amazing density, a lot of muscle, and a roasted character to its fruity personality. This backstrapping, full-bodied Barolo requires 4-5 years of cellaring, and should keep for 25. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620.