One of the few delicious Charbonos made in California comes from Turley Cellars. The 2009 Charbono Tofanelli Vineyard reveals smoky, gamy, meaty notes, more tannin than usual, and a more austere style. This dark plum-colored Charbono exhibits a Rhone Valley-like personality. It should be drunk over the next several years. Larry Turley and his sidekick, longtime winemaker Ehren Jordan remain the reference point, along with Mike Officer at Carlisle in Sonoma and the Biale Family in Napa, for world-class, quintessential old vine Zinfandels. Sadly, few California Zinfandels reach these heights. 2009 is a softer, lighter-styled vintage for Turley, but the wines are already charming and irresistible. They should be ready to drink when released and best consumed in their first 4-6 years of life. The exceptions are a few of the old vine cuvees as well as their Petite Syrahs, which are all 30-50-year wines. Surprisingly, the alcohol levels are nearly as high as usual, running between 15.1% and 16.5% for the Zinfandels and 1 to 2% lower in the Petite Syrahs. Turley Cellars’ Petite Syrahs are something to behold. As stated above, they are all 30- to 50-year wines and even in a more fruit-forward, slightly lighter vintage such as 2009, they deliver massive fruit and richness, yet possess considerably lower alcohols than any of the Zinfandels. Although they can be drunk young, their true character tends to emerge at ages 10-20 or later as they are the ultimate anti-oxidant when it comes to wine. All of them exhibits dense opaque purple colors, full body and notes of graphite, blackberries, blueberries and incense as well as superb purity and density.Tel. (707) 963-0940; Fax (707) 963-8683
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