The 2011 Faro shows broad shoulders and big extraction with high levels of fruit intensity and tightness of structure to boot. Prune, black cherry, spice, ground pepper and clove come into sharp focus. There’s a raw and slightly untamed quality to this wine that is ultimately its most attractive feature. Drink 2015-2022.
The Faro appellation in Messina province is among the most dramatic viticulture spots I have seen in Italy. Steep terraces of head-pruned vines descend rapidly to the sea facing the Straits of Messina. As ancient sailors and maritime experts can testify (Odysseus among them), the wind conditions of the Straits are completely unpredictable and wildly evocative. Proprietor Giovanni Scarfone and his father have a few precious hectares of vines which they farm according to organic and non-interventionist philosophies. They have Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Nocera vines ranging from seven to 65 years old.
Importers: Jan D’Amore Wines, www.jandamorewines.com; Oliver McCrum Wines, www.omwines.com; C&G Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 327-9896
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