Weingut Carl Loewen Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Alte Reben Qba trocken, Mosel, Germany

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Orange and lime zest in the nose of Loewen’s 2008 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling trocken Alte Reben – along with apricot and yellow plum – manifest themselves on a firmly-textured palate as almost sizzling pungency. This is an undeniably austere rendition of its great site, seemingly saturated with fine slate, but one whose palpable density; ample supply of primary juiciness even amid bittersweet pungency; enticing salinity; lift and finishing torque make for startling stimulation. I would feel free to follow this over at least the next 6 years. Karl-Josef Loewen associates the measurably high dry extracts of his 2008s with their ability to buffer high acids but also to convey mineral characteristics. He was pleased to point out that not one of his dry wines reached 12% alcohol this vintage, and only partly on account of that vintage itself. Especially with his oldest vines, pruning for multiple short canes and de-leafing at critical junctures are among the techniques being employed to diminish the accretion of sugar and maximize flavor. Small berries and clusters are also critical, says Loewen, who does not believe in green harvesting. “The trick,” he opines, “is to make little wine from many bunches, rather than little wine from few bunches.”Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300