Weingut Carl Loewen Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Alte Reben Qba trocken, Mosel, Germany

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The 2006 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling trocken Alte Reben smells effusively and pungently of tangerine rind, sage, narcissus, and buddleia. A practically aggressive spice and salinity accompanied by a tactile dimension give this an impressive sense of grip, seemingly that of botrytis working in synergy with the site’s inherent minerality. As in the Detzemer, there is a brothy, carnal, Chablis-like sense of savory depth as well. No concession is made to textural polish or flattering immediacy of ripe fruit. Follow this for 7-10 years and you will be led on a fascinating tour of one of the Mosel’s great and too little-known terroirs. From fruit picked both at the beginning and end of the harvest, and from a mixture of alluvial and slate soils, The Mosel’s greatest champion of once-great but recently-neglected sites and one of German viticulture’s most tireless outside-the-box thinkers in the search for quality, Karl-Josef Loewen took extra efforts in 2006 including adding supplemental pickers who helped him harvest in only ten days. He did not begin until October 8, believing that “before then, the ripeness just wasn’t there.” Loewen is notoriously fearless when it comes to harvesting botrytis, but he tended toward more whole-cluster pressing than usual to help guard against impure elements of rot. In an exciting development, beginning this year, Loewen is taking the lead with Carl Schmitt-Wagner in farming the latter’s ancient Riesling in Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300