Niewodniczanski's 2008 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Alte Reben displays a richness and sheer stuffing that goes beyond his other bottlings, reflecting its origin in un-grafted, centenarian vines in a great site. But that by no means precludes the elegance, lift, and refreshment that characterize so much of this vintage at its best; on the contrary, this wine delivers those virtues in spades. Narcissus and lily perfume inform a musky, decadent bouquet that momentarily remind me of Forster Kirchenstuck (whose greatest exemplars once possessed this sort of balance, too, with under-12% alcohol and haunting, supportive hints of sweetness). Litchi, yellow plum, white peach, and quince, along with pistachio and almond extract creamily yet refreshingly flood the palate. And the gum-etching interaction of citrus zest, pit fruits, nut oils, pepper and spice with diverse saline and stony mineral nuances in the finish will keep you turning the pages in grateful anticipation of continued intrigue. Surely this will be worth following for a dozen or more years. The 2006, incidentally, had on this occasion gained clarity, lift, and mineral diversity since my previous exposure in 2007.
Roman Niewodniczanski and his young cellarmaster Dominik Volk predictably thinned crops fanatically, and even then did not begin harvesting until after the 20th of October, nor finish until the end of November. -It's a dream for us,- Volk enthuses, -to be able to harvest all of our best sites only in November.- The team here was thus able to pick with full ripeness including the ripe, harmonious acids that - along with extended lees contact and cask maturation - are cornerstones of Van Volxem's by now well-tuned house style. (For details on that style and Niewodniczanski's ambitions, please consult earlier reports, notably that in issue 163.)
Importers include Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312 and Acid Inc Selections, New York, NY; tel. (817) 687 4848
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