The 2005 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Alte Reben, from 100-year-old vines, had just been assembled prior to bottling when I tasted it, and was partly for that reason smelling quite yeasty. But notes of ripe peach, flowers, and tart black fruits developed as it opened in the glass. On the palate, this Riesling offers the epitome of old vines creaminess further accentuated by active lees contact, and flavors of pit fruits, black fruits, honey, and nut paste. Smoky, spicy accents from botrytis subtly complexify this superbly concentrated young old-vines Riesling that finishes with impressive breadth and reach. Given its disturbed, just-blended state, I prefer to hedge my evaluation of this wine by a wider than normal spread, however I am reasonably confident it will rise to the post-bottling occasion, and if there is one Van Volxem wine that seems most likely to be destined for more than a decade in the cellar, it would be the bottling from these centenarian vines.
Also recommended: 2005 Schiefer Riesling ($ unknown; 85).
Various importers including: Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR
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