The 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella captures every bit of potential I sensed when I first tasted it in 2009. The fruit is dark, sensual and totally enveloping. Chocolate, new leather, licorice and spices follow, adding further richness and nuance. Everything is in perfect balance, but in 2006 the estate’s Amarone has an extra gear that propels it into the stratosphere. Ideally, this needs a few years in bottle for the tannins to soften, but the 2006 is already fabulous and totally delicious. With time in the glass, the wine’s inner sweetness emerges even more fully while the fruit opens up beautifully. Mint, violets and leather lead to tar and smoke on the long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. This is another terrific set of new releases from Roccolo Grassi and proprietor Marco Sartori, one of the emerging stars in Valpolicella. Importers: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552

Very harmonious, exhibiting a pure fruit character of strawberry, cherry and dried cranberry, along with spiced plum, gumdrop and sweet smoke notes that show a hint of molasses' richness. There's a pleasant tang to the enlivening acidity with supple tannins and floral and fragrant herb notes showing on the finish. Drink now through 2026. 620 cases made, 125 cases imported.??–AN??Region: Italy / Amarone della Valpolicella Select to Add

Elegant and powerful, this beautiful wine shows many of the best qualities of Amarone tradition. It boasts a thick and luscious mouthfeel with flavorful accents of red cherry, sweet spice, tobacco and polished black stone. ——M.L.(2/1/2011)—— 92

This hearty Valpolicella opens with meaty tones of cured beef, cola, teriyaki sauce and mesquite smoke. It’s a rich, smooth wine with a polished finish and loads of fruit intensity on the very long fade.——M.L.(2/1/2011)—— 89