The 2003 Amarone is made in an opulent, full-throttle style. It is packed with fruit as well as complex roasted coffee bean, chocolate, licorice and spice notes that develop in the glass. Today the tannins come across as a little rough, but if they settle down this Amarone could very well merit a higher score. The Amarone is made from 60% Corvina, 15% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella and 5% Croatina. Sartori says the Corvina provides the cherry fruit and finesse, Corvinone is more spiced and tannic, Rondinella contributes color and roundness, and Croatina provides color and ripe fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2013. Marco Sartori is the young, ambitious proprietor at Roccolo Grassi. Unlike many of his colleagues, Sartori leaves the fruit for his Amarone to dry for a shorter time as he believes this approach allows him to achieve concentration in the vineyard while allowing the wines to remain fresh in the bottle. The Soave and Valpolicella are made from the estate’s younger plants while the oldest vines are used for the Amarone and the Reciotos. Sartori prefers to age his wines predominantly in French oak. This is a beautiful set of wines from one of Veneto’s most promising young producers. Importer: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552

The winds of change are blowing over Valpolicella and this boutique winery is one of the protagonists behind a new wave of excellence. The family winery has been around for 50 years and young Marco Sartori took over in 1996, proposing wines like this one: Brawny intensity is delivered over notes of espresso, almond, black fruit and tea leaf. Despite its concentrated appearance, this is a delicate wine with subtle nuances around a solid core of excellent fruit.——M.L.(10/1/2007)—— 93