Ratzenberger Bacharacher Wolfshohle Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese

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Dried fig and apricot in a matrix of lemon juice and honey distinguish the Esszencia-like Ratzenberger 2011 Bacharacher Wolfshohle Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese. Feather-light at a mere 6.8% alcohol; viscous and creamy in texture, yet conveying exhilarating energy; this superb elixir finishes with an at once confectionary yet juicy and saliva-stimulating savor of marzipan, salted caramel and browned butter. There is even an intriguingly smoky and stony undertone one could call “mineral” and which further serves to set off the glorious ennoblement of fruit on display here. Look for fabulous repeat performances through at least 2050. “We started picking on September 23,” relates the younger Ratzenberger of harvest 2011, “but then put pedal to the metal, because we had average must weights of 135 Oechsle.” That said, it took a full month, even when picking all day long, with liberal use of dry ice helping keep the fruit cool until it reached the press house. Selection, explains Ratzenberger, was critical to rendering balanced dry wines, yet the abundant botrytis that was picked out proved to be of a very fine, clear sort – “the most beautiful we’ve ever seen,” he enthused – and unlike at so many addresses this vintage, served also to concentrate acidity. While this year’s sweet Ratzenberger wines fermented relatively quickly and were bottled correspondingly early (even the T.B.A. in late spring), most of the dry ones – as usual at this address – fermented well into and in some instances all the way through summer. (Incidentally, apropos Mittelrhein Riesling’s potential for allying extreme levity and complexity; the virtues of hidden sweetness that most of Germany’s growers nowadays ignore; but perhaps also apropos climate change, a 1986 St. Jost Kabinett of around 16-18 grams residual sugar that I tasted on the occasion of this most recent visit was simply spectacular, calling forth a full litany of mineral descriptors while leaving thirst and soul-searching equally slaked.) Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644