Ballsy one moment and then suave the next, Joch Bosworth's Cabernet is an interesting wine for a number of reasons: his vineyards are organic, and a small percentage (which varies between 2 and 7%) of the fruit for this bottling is cordon cut on the vines and left to dry, Amarone-style. Plus, this Cab just flat-out tastes good: it's brawny and plummy, with the cordon-cut fruit adding extra richness. Finishes with chocolate-mocha flavors. Drink after 2006, as the nose is still pretty closed and the tannins still substantial.——D.T.(3/1/2005)—— 90