The balance and richness of the 2005 Riesling Smaragd Achleiten remind Pichler of his 1990. A wonderfully evocative aroma of bittersweet flowers, orange zest, overt wet stone minerality, white peach, and brown spices anticipates a palate that doesn’t disappoint, combining a glossy texture and distinctive mineral character with abundant richness of pit fruits. A rich, piquant, and stony finish of superb length caps this outstanding achievement. “I just did my job,” says Pichler, deferring to his terroir. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($23.00; 85)Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700